Bikepacking the Afghan Pamir: a journey to the roof of the world
Tucked between towering ranges, the Afghan Pamir remains one of the most inaccessible corners of Central Asia. And suddenly, there we were. The mountains around us felt huge enough to swallow us whole, and the valley kept pulling us deeper in, like it wanted to see how far we’d go.
As we left the more populated parts of Afghanistan behind, things got quieter … and rougher. The wide open spaces turned into a rocky thread of a trail, winding toward what people call “The roof of the world.” At times it felt like we were completely out there. Then another checkpoint came into view. Even here, there’s always someone watching.
We were approaching the Great Pamir: a high, open plateau surrounded by snowcapped peaks. It didn’t take long to realise that bikepacking in this part of the world rarely means just riding. It means pushing, dragging, carrying, and trying to convince your body to keep going. The climbs were steep, the air was thin, and food poisoning definitely wasn’t on the packing list.
Luckily the Hobootleg Geo held up. Even when the trail stopped being a trail. No complaints from the bike. Can’t say the same for us.
Just when everything felt a bit too much, the first yurts appeared in the distance like tiny rescue beacons. The Kyrgyz families welcomed us in with a warmth that completely contrasted with the harsh landscape around them. Life above 4,000 meters is simple, tough, and incredibly well-organized. Everyone knows what to do, and when to do it. Our presence (and our bikes) added a bit of entertainment. The Hobootleg Geo drew a lot of attention. Definitely not something you see in the Pamir every day.
We stayed a few days, rested, drank endless cups of tea, and learned a little about their routines. When it was time to leave, saying goodbye was harder than expected. But that’s the thing about trips like this: You’re always moving, even when part of you wants to stay put.
Riding through the Afghan Pamir reminded us that there’s no perfect plan out here. You deal with what comes, keep moving, and sort the rest out later. The Hobootleg Geo was the perfect partner for that. It didn’t complain, didn’t get tired, and definitely didn’t get food poisoning.
In the end, the Pamir wasn’t a destination. It was a test of endurance, patience, and what it means to keep going when everything tells you to stop.
